We finally made it to Dahab around 1pm after our looooong, cramped overnight bus ride. Dahab is tiny. There are literally only two streets that separate the red mountainous dessert from the clear blue waters of the Red Sea. It’s small, but it’s gorgeous. The bus dropped us off in front of this sketchy looking alley between a small crappy looking restaurant and a convenience store. I was a little weirded out when our guide said our hostel was down the alley, but we unloaded all out crap and followed him. Behind the shops, the alley opened up into this huge garden hostel, Bish Bishi, with each room being its own little hut with a bathroom. It turned out to be really nice.
After unloading, we all walked to this restaurant right on the water. The place didn’t have regular tables and chairs, but instead had short tables and cushions on the ground. The food turned out ok, and while we were eating, a guy from the local dive shop came over to talk about all the stuff we could do (dive, snorkel, wind surf, etc.) while we were there. Erin and I and three other people from our group decided that we were going to get our dive certification the next afternoon, so we walked over to the guys shop after lunch and watched the first video to prep for the next day. Once that was finished the guy gave us some snorkel gear and we jumped in the water. Whats cool about Dahab is there is a reef surrounding the town that is only about 10ft from shore, so anywhere you jump in you’re seeing tons of fish within seconds. We called it quits after an hour or so, grabbed a quick dinner with the group, and then went to bed around 8pm knowing we weren’t going to get much sleep.
Less than 4 hours after we went to sleep, my alarm went off. The plan was to meet the group at midnight to catch another bus for a quick 2 hour ride to Mt. Sinai, the site in the Bible where Moses received the 10 commandments. The bus was more of a van with all the seats occupied, so sleep was pretty hard to come by for this 2 hours. It didn’t help that the guy was driving like a maniac, and, because he wasn’t wearing his seat belt, we all got to hear the van “ping” for the entire 2 hours. We finally got there and started our climb to the top. The idea was to make it to the top in about 3 hours, lay out the sleeping bags and sleep for about 2 hours, then watch the sunrise. The path to the top wasn’t too difficult. After about 2 hours of walking, with a few breaks sprinkled in at small Bedouin huts along the way, you get to the bottom of a set of over 700 steps that will take you to the summit. It was a little chilly at the bottom and everyone was fine while hiking up, but when we got to the top it was cold. There were still traces of snow up there. We were some of the first people up there so we staked out a primo position, bundled up in our sleeping bags, and tried to get some sleep. While we were laying down, it was amazing to look up at the stars. There were no lights up here, so the number of stars you could see had to be in the millions. It was so clear you could easily see the Milky Way as well… soo cool. After about an hour of freezing cold sleep, we all woke up to a bunch of Japanese tourists running up to us yelling “cocoons, cocoons”. I’m assuming we looked like cocoons in our sleeping bags, but I guess I’ll never know because as soon as Erin was woken up she shot a pretty serious death stare at them and they backed off. Once we looked around we saw that by this point there were tons of people up here with us. I guess its a pretty big pilgrim destination because its significant to so many different religions. Watching the sunrise from up there was pretty cool because we really had no idea what the landscape looked like, having hiked the whole thing in the dark, so once it was up we were able to see all the other mountains around us. After going back down the 700 steps, there are two paths you can take to the bottom: the way we came up or the “steps of penitence”, a set of another 3500 really steep steps. We chose to take the steps. We got to the bottom around 7:30, hung out in the sun for about an hour and a half, and then checked out St. Catherine’s monastery when it opened at 9. This monastery was built in the 5th century and holds tons of old art, manuscripts, and codex. Even the huge wooden doors are from around 554AD. There was some pretty amazing old art in there. Also, the burning bush from the Bible is in one corner of the monastery… it’s not flaming any more.
We got back to the hostel around noon and were supposed to SCUBA around 1. Instead we slept until 4 and decided that getting a SCUBA certificate wasn’t really worth it right now, so we’re putting that on hold until Africa or Thailand. Two nights in a row of no sleep took it out of us. We woke up, grabbed a quick meal and a few beers between just Erin and I, then met up with the group for a few more drinks on the beach. The next day about half of our group took a taxi about 20 minutes away to the Blue Hole in Dahab. the blue hole is pretty much exactly what it sounds like: a hole in the ocean that’s about 100m deep that is about 10m from shore. There are only a few of them in the world, and apparently some of the best places to SCUBA/snorkel around because the entire hole is lined with reefs. We were in the water for about an hour and saw millions of fish of all sizes and colors and an octopus. We got out, chilled on the beach for a while, and then headed back to the hostel to celebrate St. Paddy’s Day!! The whole group went out to dinner where we got the freshest calamari I’ve ever had then went out to what I think was the only bar in Dahab. We all had a few drinks, celebrated with our Irish guide, then walked back to the hostel. Turns out there was an Egyptian pizza place across the street from the hostel where 5 of us stopped to split a pie. Egyptian pizza isn’t really like Italian pizza, but it’s just as good. We got a pepperoni and a dessert chocolate pizza. There were both out of this world. Bars and late night pizza… gotta love Egypt.
The last day in Dahab was pretty relaxed. Erin and I woke up early and walked for a few hours through the town and then just down the beach taking pictures. We got back around lunch time and had some local koshary. Koshary is a mix of small noodles, rice, lentils, tomatos, and a bunch of other stuff all mixed together. It’s pretty delicious. We walked around the market for a while afterward, picked up a few postcards, and then headed back to pack. The next morning we took an early bus to the ship yard to jump on a ferry to Jordan. The ferry was supposed to leave at 11:30am. We got to the shipyard around 10, had to deal with some crazy customs/metal detectors/passport checkers and then sat around and waited. We then found out that the boat wasn’t going to leave until 4, but we could board at 1. Around 1:45, finally got on board, sorted out mine and Erin’s cabin and waited some more. We finally left the dock around 5:30. Time was spent on the boat reading, napping, and playing cards with the group. We landed around 10 where we now will meet up with the overlanding truck we’ll be with for the rest of our trip. Jordan should be cool. We’ll be checking out Petra and the Dead Sea before we head into Syria in about 5 days!